Moisturizer Uploaded by tuli on 10/03/2020 Ingredients overview Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Fructose, Glycine, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Urea, Inositol, Niacinamide, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate Highlights alcohol-free fragrance & essentialoil-free Key Ingredients Other Ingredients Moisturizer/humectant Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Fructose, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Urea, Inositol, Niacinamide Skim through Ingredient name what-it-does irr., com. ID-Rating Aqua solvent Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice soothing, moisturizer/​humectant goodie Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 superstar Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent 0, 1 Fructose moisturizer/​humectant goodie Glycine skin-identical ingredient goodie Lactic Acid exfoliant, moisturizer/​humectant, buffering superstar Sodium Hyaluronate skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 goodie Sodium Lactate buffering, moisturizer/​humectant goodie Sodium PCA skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 goodie Urea skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant goodie Inositol moisturizer/​humectant Niacinamide cell-communicating ingredient, skin brightening, anti-acne, moisturizer/​humectant superstar PPG-5-Ceteth-20 emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing, emollient Disodium EDTA chelating Citric Acid buffering Chlorphenesin preservative, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Phenoxyethanol preservative Potassium Sorbate preservative Sodium Benzoate preservative Nu Skin NaPCA Moisture MistIngredients explained Also-called Water What-it-does solvent Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin hello long baths! is drying. One more thing the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. Aloe Vera is one of today’s magic plants. It does have some very nice properties indeed, though famous dermatologist Leslie Baumann warns us in her book that most of the evidence is anecdotal and the plant might be a bit research does confirm about Aloe is that it’s a great moisturizer and has several anti-inflammatory among others contains salicylates, polysaccharides, magnesium lactate and C-glucosyl chromone as well as some antibacterial components. It also helps wound healing and skin regeneration in general. All in all definitely a goodie. A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 yearsNot only a simple moisturizer but knows much more keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy liquid crystal state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrierEffective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >> Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin penetration enhancer, making the product spread nicely over the skin slip agent, and attracting water humectant into the skin. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone at least not that we know about. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. BTW, it’s also a food additive. Fancy name for fruit sugar. It has nice water-binding properties and helps to keep skin hydrated. A non-essential amino acid the building blocks of skin proteins, like collagen or elastin, that the body can produce itself, but its production decreases with age. When you put it all over your face, it works as a moisturizer and maybe more. According to great skincare blog Futurederm, glycine might help with wound healing and tissue repair and when used together with other amino acids, leucine and proline it might improve wrinkles. It’s the second most researched AHA after glycolic acidIt gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skinIt also has amazing skin hydrating propertiesIn higher concentration 10% and up it improves skin firmness, thickness and wrinklesChoose a product where you know the concentration and pH value because these two greatly influence effectivenessDon’t forget to use your sunscreen in any case but especially so next to an AHA product Read all the geeky details about Lactic Acid here >> It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid HA. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer big molecule from repeated subunits found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate and cheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature. The sodium salt of lactic acid. It's a great skin moisturizer and also used to regulate the pH value of the cosmetic formula. It's a natural ingredient approved by both ECOCERT and COSMOS. PCA stands for Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid and though it might not sound like it, it is a thing that can be found naturally in our skin. The sodium salt form of PCA is an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated. Yes, it's the thing that can be found naturally in pee. And in the skin. It is an awesome natural moisturizing factor, aka NMF. NMFs are important components that help the skin to hold onto water and keep it plump, elastic and hydrated. Urea makes up about 7% of NMFs next to other things such as amino acids 40%, PCA 12% or Lactate 12%. What makes urea special, is that it is not only a simple moisturizer, but it is thought to be a "small-molecule regulator of epidermal structure and function" meaning that it has a bunch of extra biological activities. It acts as a mild keratolytic agent some of its moisturizing action is thought to come from urea's ability to break down bonds in the protein called filaggrin and thus freeing up amino acids in the skin, enhances antimicrobial peptide expression and improves skin barrier function. Being a mild keratolytic agent and strong moisturizer means that high-percentage 10-40% urea treatments are found effective in a bunch of skin disorders connected to excessive dryness and malfunctioning skin barrier such as ichthyosis, xerosis, psoriasis, eczema and seborrheic dermatitis. Overall, just like glycerin, urea is a real oldie but a goodie, a nice ingredient in any moisturizer. We don't have description for this ingredient multi-functional skincare superstar with several proven benefits for the skinGreat anti-aging, wrinkle smoothing ingredient used at 4-5% concentrationFades brown spots alone or in combination with amino sugar, acetyl glucosamineIncreases ceramide synthesis that results in a stronger, healthier skin barrier and better skin hydrationCan help to improve several skin conditions including acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis Read all the geeky details about Niacinamide here >> A helper ingredient that can solubilize challenging oils and oil-loving actives into cleansing products. It also has emollient, emulsifying, and wetting common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula that usually get into there from water that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around or less. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use think three months and 20% concentration can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Probably that’s why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. A little helper ingredient that works as a preservative. It works against bacteria and some species of fungi and yeast. It's often combined with IT-preservative, pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason not something new it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability can be heated up to 85°C and works on a wide range of pH levels ph 3-10. It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of one of those things that help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative. It’s not a strong one and doesn’t really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. To do that it has to break down to its active form, sorbic acid. For that to happen, there has to be water in the product and the right pH value pH 3-4. But even if everything is right, it’s not enough on its own. If you see potassium sorbate you should see some other preservative next to it too. BTW, it’s also a food preservative and even has an E number, helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. It works mainly against fungi. It’s pH dependent and works best at acidic pH levels 3-5. It’s not strong enough to be used in itself so it’s always combined with something else, often with potassium sorbate. You may also want to take a look at... Normal well kind of - it's purified and deionized water. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. [more] The famous aloe vera. A great moisturizer and anti-inflammatory ingredient that also helps wound healing and skin regeneration. [more] A real oldie but a goodie. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. [more] An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. [more] Fancy name for fruit sugar. It has nice water-binding properties and helps to keep skin hydrated. An amino acid the building blocks of skin proteins, like collagen that hydrates the skin and might help wound healing and improve wrinkles. [more] A superstar AHA that not only exfoliates skin but is also a very good moisturizer. In higher concentration 10% and up it can even improve skin firmness, thickness, and wrinkles. [more] It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. [more] The sodium salt of lactic acid. It's a great skin moisturizer and also used to regulate the pH value of the cosmetic formula. [more] It's an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated. [more] The thing in the pee that is also a natural moisturizing factor NMF with mild keratolytic and strong skin moisturizing superpowers. [more] A multi-functional skincare superstar that has clinically proven anti-aging, skin lightening, anti-inflammatory and barrier repair properties. [more] A helper ingredient that can solubilize challenging oils and oil-loving actives into cleansing products. It also has emollient and emulsifying, and wetting properties. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula that usually get into there from water that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. [more] An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. [more] A little helper ingredient that works as a preservative. It works against bacteria and some species of fungi and yeast. [more] Pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. [more] A not so strong preservative that doesn’t really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. [more] A preservative that works mainly against fungi. Has to be combined with other preservatives. [more]

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